With its grim tower blocks, down at heel pubs and extensive array of fried chicken takeaways, it would probably be pushing it a little to suggest that Stockwell is the UK's answer to Lisbon, but what is undeniable is that this particular corner of South London has become home to the largest population of Portuguese people in the country.
As in many other areas of the capital, this concentration of one nationality has spawned a range of restaurants reflecting this demographic, offering a welcome alternative to the rancid poultry carcass in a box option referred to above. Nevertheless, it has taken me almost four years of living in Stockwell to venture out for my first Portuguese meal, which I finally got round to doing the other day.
O Moinho, on the Wandsworth Road backing onto Larkhall Park, has a reputation as the venue of choice for the Iberian diaspora, and as my friend and I arrived the majority of what is a pretty small space was being prepared for what we were informed was a birthday party. With its pristine white table cloths, ornate traditionally tiled walls and sparkling wine glasses, clearly cheap and cheerful was not O Moinho's selling point.
Unperturbed, we sat down outside and tried to imagine we were in the Algarve rather than the London Borough of Lambeth, selecting an (excellent) bottle of Douro, a Portuguese red, to help us along. Service was swift and friendly, and after dabbling with the bread and olives we moved straight onto the main course. This was when the culture shock I hadn't bargained on suddenly reared its head.
Not being in the mood for octopus, fish stew or the other options on the predominantly piscine menu, I plumped for the seemingly innocuous special of chicken with rice, but was informed by a clearly concerned waitress that this dish was not suitable for English tastes as the sauce was made with chicken's blood, rendering it inedible even to some Portuguese.
Instead of doing the sensible thing and ordering a steak, I went ahead with my original choice and was confronted by a steaming pot of meat and bone that looked like it belonged in a medieval shepherd's hut rather than a 21st century dining establishment. Strangely enough, once I got used to spitting out the occasional rib, the unsophisticated but hearty taste was not actually unpleasant, and I could sense the organic, unpoilt goodness of the ingredients seeping out into my mouth. Nevertheless, it was not an experience I would care to repeat and I received a wry 'I told you so' glance when our table was cleared with my plate half full. My companion's suckling pig was also dismissed as a little too crunchy, with the baffling addition of a large pile of Walkers crinkly crisps doing little to assuage his disappointment.
At nearly £30 a head including wine, O Moinho is undoubtedly one of the more expensive dinner options in an area of London not renowned for its profusion of haute cuisine, and while I could not fault the welcome we recieved, my conclusion would be that this restaurant is best suited to those more familiar with the Portuguese palate. The curious would be advised to check out one of the several cheaper alternatives on the South Lambeth Road, where I understand a good range of tapas is available with blood and bones strictly limited.
O Moinho, 355 Wandsworth Road, Stockwell. Tel: 020 7498 6333
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